About Samaria Gorge
Samaria Gorge is located in the National Park of Samaria, in the White Mountains on the island of Crete. It is the longest gorge in Greece and one of the largest in Europe.
The gorge became a national park in 1962, primarily to protect the Cretan goat also known as the “kri-kri”. In the gorge you will see the abandoned Samaria Village and the village’s church Óssia María. It was abandoned in 1962 due to the opening of the national park. In addition, throughout the gorge you will find Byzantine temples, Christian chapels, Venetian fortresses and World War II shelters.
It is an extremely popular tourist attraction that requires a full day exploration. The hike starts near the town of Omalos. The entrance to Samaria National Park starts at Xyloskalo. After a 16-Km downhill trek, you will reach the village of Agia Roumeli. The hike through the national park is 13-Km, however after you exit the park there is still an approximate 3-Km walk to Agia Roumeli. This town is accessible only via boat. From Agia Roumeli, all hikers (that are not staying overnight) will take the 1730 ferry. The main ferry will take passengers to Sougia (westbound). On the day of our hike, there was no ferry to Sougia so we took the ferry to Chora Sfakion (eastbound) where the tour bus took us back to Chania from there.
The Hike
Trail Location: Samaria National Park – Xyloskalo
Roundtrip Length: 16-Km: 13-Km through the national park and 3-Km from park exit to Agia Roumeli (About 5-7 hours hike)
Trailhead (Starting) Elevation: 1250m (~4100 ft)
After paying 5 Euro for the national park entrance (free for children under 15), the hike will start with approximately 4-Km of non-stop stairs and switchbacks to the gorge floor. The trail is very well marked.
There are also yellow-painted kilometer markers on the hike to let you know how far you have hiked. The trail is made of limestone and due to the high traffic it receives, some of the rocks are very slippery. Step carefully especially when going down the “stairs”.
Throughout the hike there are well maintained rest areas with benches and/or picnic tables. Most have fountains where hikers can refill their waters and garbage bins. Some rest areas also have pit toilets for those that need to relieve themselves.
The earlier you hike, the cooler it is. In addition, the earlier you hike, the shadier the gorge may be. So timing is important.
Near the last 2-Km of the hike, you will approach the Gates or “Iron Gates” where the width of the opening is about four meters. This is the most photographed location of the Samaria Gorge.
Directly outside the park exist is a park cafe that sells fresh-squeezed orange juice, beer, and soft-serve ice cream. Stop here for a quick break and/or snack but keep in mind the village of Agia Roumeli is still ~3-Km away! A little further from the park cafe is another smaller cafe that offers a minibus ride (for 2 Euro) to Agia Roumeli (~1.1-Km). It isn’t that much further to walk, so I would recommend walking.
In Agia Roumeli, there are are plenty of taverns, restaurants, souvenir shops, and accommodation options including the beach. From Agia Roumeli, you can take the 1730 ferry to Sougia/Chora Sfakion OR the 0830 (or 1130) ferry the following day.
The hike through Samaria Gorge is a full day affair. It will be extremely difficult for those that have knee injuries as it is a downhill trek almost the entire way. However it is beautiful and a nice outdoor experience to break up the beach visits and shopping. As an 8-year old on my tour bus said: “It was easy peasy” and then passed out on the bus to Chania. 🙂
Getting to Samaria Gorge
The only way to visit the gorge is by public bus or traveling with a tour group. Due to the logistics of the hike, it is not recommended to travel by car or else you will have to backtrack via hiking or bus to retrieve your car.
By Public Bus (from Chania):
- Check the Bus Timetables to see what time the buses depart.
- There are daily buses from Chania Central Bus Station to Omalos (Samaria Gorge) departing at 0745. The bus should take approximately 1-hr.
- You can purchase roundtrip tickets: Chania to Omalos and Sougia to Chania OR Chora Sfakion to Chania at the bus station or make a reservation online. I believe most take the bus from Sougia. But both get you back around the same time.
- The fare for a round trip bus ticket is €15.30 (as of May 2018).
- The fare for the ferry to Sougia or Chora Sfakion is €10 (as of May 2018). Tickets can be purchased in Agia Roumeli. Look for the ferry kiosk in town. Both ferries depart at 1730.
- The buses returning to Chania from Sougia or Chora Sfakion depart at 1815 or 1830, respectively. However, these buses wait for the passengers from the ferry from Agia Roumeli before departure.
By Tour Group: To Take a Tour? Or Not to Take a Tour?
We hiked on May 3, a couple of days after the park opened and during low-season on the island. The public bus to Omalos was leaving at 0745. Since we wanted to ensure ample time to explore Agia Roumeli and catch the 1730 ferry, we decided to book a tour with Elafonissos Travel:
- The tour picked us up at our meeting point ~6am (instead of relying on public transit that leaves at 0745).
- Took us to a cafe in Omalos where we were able to purchase breakfast (coffee, pastries, juice) and a sandwich for the hike. In addition, we had the opportunity to use the rest room one last time.
- The tour bus was the first tour at the cafe and first tour bus at the national park.
- In addition, our tour was the first bus out of the port to Chania.
- Compared to other tour sites, it was the cheapest but you might be able to negotiate lower prices in person. We booked online since we were traveling into Crete that night. The online booking was quick and they were very communicative about the details of the hike and pick up locations.
- If you are staying further from the city center, there are additional fees for pick up and drop off.
- NOTE: If you do decide to go with a tour and it is low-season, check the tour website as some tours might not be available everyday during the month of May.
In hindsight we could have easily taken the public bus and had ample time to explore Agia Roumeli. Though it was convenient to have a pick up and drop off directly at or near your hotel/stay in Chania. For those looking to do this hike, I would recommend taking the public bus if you want to save money.
What to Bring
(1) For the Heat:
- Refillable Water Bottle: At various rest areas there are water fountains that you can use to fill your water bottle. This is untreated water pumped from the mountain springs.
- Sunscreen and a Hat: While hiking through the gorge, there is limited to no shade.
(2) Snack(s): Bring a snack or purchase one in Omalos prior to hiking. There are no places to purchase a snack or drink during the hike until you reach the park boundaries at the end.
(3) Camera
(4) Cash for entering the national park and riding the ferries. Each entrance fee is 5 Euro. The ferry ride is 10 Euro (as of May 2018).
(5) Walking Shoes: If you do not have experience hiking, then shoes with ankle support are more ideal.
(6) Trekking Poles (optional): We didn’t use trekking poles, but might be nice if you have knee issues. Trekking poles are optional and can also be rented through the tour group if you decide to go that direction.
(7) Toilet Paper: There are multiple “toilets” at all of the rest areas. However, be warned most of these are non-flushing eastern-style pit toilets. Some had toilet paper, but some did not. The best toilet we found was at Rest 7 in the abandoned Samaria Village.
(8) Swimsuit and Towel (optional): In Agia Romeli, there is a pebble beach area where you can swim. The current was quite strong when we visited so we just laid out the towel and took a nap on the beach prior to the ferry.
(9) Sandals (optional): We brought sandals post hike and it felt wonderful to just let them breath.
Where to Stay?
The largest city nearby is Chania. We stayed in Chania and took a tour. We didn’t return to Chania until about 2100. If you like, there are accommodations in Omalos if you would prefer to stay there before your hike or Agia Roumeli if you would prefer to stay there after your hike. Though staying in Chania is recommended. We just slept on the bus on the way back.
Places to Eat
(1) Taverna Tarra: We got some snacks and beer at this restaurant and everything was delicious! In addition, if you come early enough you can grab a table on the terrace overlooking the water.
(2) Calypso Restaurant: We didn’t eat here, but the food looks good and the reviews are pretty high.
(3) Rousios: This is the first restaurant you walk though as you head towards Agia Roumeli. There were already quite a few hikers dining at this location, so we decided to walk further towards the water.
(4) Hotel Gigilos Omalos: If you can get coffee and pastries in Chania BEFORE the tour, I would recommend going that route. However, if you happen to be in our similar situation where we did not have the luxury of purchasing anything prior to our hike you can get orange juice, coffee, croissants, and a ham/cheese sandwich (for lunch) here. In addition, you can use the toilet here prior to your hike. NOTE: Most tour groups will stop here prior to the national park entrance so be prepared for long lines for the toilet.
Travel Tips
(1) Check Dates and Times BEFORE Travel: Samaria National Park is typically open May 1 to October 15, but it is also weather permitting as flash floods and extremely hot weather can lead to closure of the park.
(2) Take allergy medicine if you need it! We visited the gorge in early May and my allergies were on full blast during the hike from the spring flowers.
(3) Keep track of your entrance ticket. You will be required to show your ticket as you exit the park.
(4) Use the toilet on the ferry! It is a long bus ride to Chania and they are not equipped with a toilet. Use the toilet in Agia Roumeli and/or the ferry!
(5) The buses will take you through very windy roads on the islands. Beware if you get car sick very easily!
(6) Bring a refillable water bottle. You can drink water from the fountains at the rest areas.
Good luck! Have fun!
