• Greece

     

    Our Greece Itinerary 

    My friend and I decided we wanted to do a girl’s trip to Greece.  It was our first time to Greece and we had almost 3 weeks of traveling days (17 days to be exact) to plan.  We lost one traveling day since we were flying from California.  During the planning phase, we realized there are over a thousand Greek islands.  Most are inhabitable, but that still leaves hundreds of Greek island destinations to choose from.  

    Which Islands to Visit? 

    We knew we wanted to include a visit to Santorini on this trip.  We also knew were going to fly into Athens and spend a handful of days sightseeing there.  And we were going to end our trip in Barcelona since I was going to continue traveling with my husband in Spain for the next four weeks.  As a result this was our itinerary for Greece: 

    Travel Tips 

    (1) Pack Light.  Use a backpacking backpack, if possible.  A lot of locations have steps (especially in Santorini).  To move more easily between locations, a backpacking backpack might be easier to transport between cities. 

    (2) Do not travel on May 1.  See below. 

    (3) Do not forget to call your credit card and ATM companies in advance to put a travel notice on your account.  This should also include any layovers you might have. 

    (4) Do you have trouble overcoming jetlag?   For this trip I had melatonin chocolates and it helped me get over jetlag pretty quickly!  I highly recommend! 

    Trip Highlights

    (1) May 1 is also May Day.  It is the first day of May and the celebration of Spring.  In Greece, a common commemoration is the making of a May wreaths out of the local wildflowers, which is then hung on doorways, balconies, and many other places until it dries.  Since it is also typically the peak of the flower season, flower shows and festivals are common. 

    (2) Meteora was breathtaking.  I highly recommend visiting the mainland of Greece if you have the opportunity. 

    (3) Food.  People.  Culture.  Everyone was extremely friendly and the food was great.  We especially loved having the seafood around Chania. 

    (4) Homecooked meal in our AirBnB in Santorini!  We wanted to enjoy our patio view, so we picked up some groceries, cooked some pasta, and enjoyed the view with a bottle of wine. 

    (5) Handmade soaps and raki in Chania.  And lots of girlfriend bonding over alcohol.  🙂 

    Trip Lowlights

    (1) May 1 is International’s Workers Day.  Do not travel on May 1 (i.e. plan on taking public transportation on May 1).  This is “Labor Day” or International’s Workers Day observed in multiple countries.  In addition, especially for Greece there could be strikes on public transportation impacting travel.  We learned the hard way when we found out 1.5 hrs before our ferry was scheduled to depart that the ferry was cancelled to Chania.  We ended up booking a last minute stay in Santorini and rescheduled our ferry to the following day.  This required a lot of last minute rearranging of our itinerary which was not fun! 

    (2) Realizing relying on public transportation to Fira from Athinios Port in Santorini was probably not a good idea after taking Blue Star Ferries.  There were thousands of people getting off the ferry.  

    (3) Donkey Poop.  On the walk from Fira to the old Athinios Port (approximately 3Km), we did not realize the steps leading down to the port would have a lot of donkeys and donkey poop.  It wasn’t bad walking down, but we did have to watch our step pretty carefully as the place was like a landmine. 

    (4) Power Outage.  During our stay in Oia (Santorini), there was a “scheduled” power outage from the morning till afternoon on one of the days we were staying there.  It didn’t stop us from enjoying the day, though some of the shops were closed due to the power outage.  The power was back on by 2pm. 

    (5) It can be a little crowded in Santorini.  Especially in Oia and the places that are heavily photographed or “Instagrammed”. 

     

  • Chania

    Chania (pronounced Hanya) is the second largest city on the island of Crete.   The city is located on the northwestern side of the island.  The venetian harbor, the old port, is lined with narrow shopping streets and waterfront restaurants.  Outside of Chania are mountain villages that offer hiking and a variety of other outdoor activities.  Of our Greece Itinerar y, this was my favorite island and second favorite destination (after Meteora)!

    Getting to Chania

    (1) Ferry and Bus: There are many different types of ferries you can take depending on where you are departing from.  Since we were departing from Santorini, we used Hellenic Seaways (highspeed ferry) to go from Santorini to Heraklion.  From Heraklion, we took a bus to Chania.  

    • Departed Santorini at 1725.  Arrived Heraklion at 1945.  Scheduled arrival was 1850.  
    • Cost in April 2018 for Economy (69 Euro/pp): USD $84.47/pp. 
    • After arriving in Heraklion, there will be an approximate 500m (~7min) walk to Heraklion Bus Station A.  See “Public Bus Service Chania-Rethimnon S.A.“. 
    • From there take the bus to Chania Central Bus Station. 

    (2) Air:  Chania has an international airport.  However, depending on where you are departing from, it may be more cost effective to take the ferry.  

    Hellenic Seaways Ferry Tips

    • Be aware of potential delay.  The ferries can arrive at the final destination point at a later time than scheduled.  Plan your itineraries accordingly.  
    • Purchase tickets in advance if you are traveling during high season (especially on weekends and/or holidays) and for cheaper fares.  
    • There are assigned seats. 
    • Bring a portable battery charger.  There are limited outlets on the ferry.  You will be lucky if you find an available open one. 
    • WIFI is available for purchase at the reception desk. 
    • Bring snacks.  Water, coffee, and food are available on the ferry for purchase. 
    • We left our luggage in the loading dock and it was fine and safe. 

    Getting Around Chania

    (1) Bus: The “Public Bus Service Chania-Rethimnon S.A.” is very cost effective and efficient for getting around the island.  The timestables change depending on the season.  

    (2) Rent a Car/Scooter/ATV:  There are plenty of places to rent a car, scooter, and/or ATV.  Rentals from various companies may require an International Drivers License.  

    (3) Taxi:  There are taxis available on the island.  

    Where to Stay? 

    There are plenty of cost effective locations to stay in Chania.  We spent two nights in an AirBnB near the Chania Central Bus Station and two nights in the old town via AirBnB.  In old town, it was a bit noisy at night, but it didn’t stop us from enjoying some Raki and a bottle of wine on the balcony. 

    Things to See

    (1) Samaria Gorge:  One of the most popular activities on the island of Crete is to hikes through the Samaria Gorge.  Check out my blog post for my hike through Samaria Gorge

    (2) Elafonissi Beach:  Also known as the “Pink Sand Beach” and one of the more popular beach towns on the island.  The beach is located on the southwestern side of Crete.  You can either take a tour here or public bus (~1.5hrs from Chania).  Elafonisi “island”, a protected area, is an oblong peninsula, which often breaks in two parts by water giving the impression of being a separate island.  Since the waters are shallow, you can walk to the island by foot from the beach. 

    (3) Visit Rethymno:  Also known as Rethimnon is a small coastal town similar to Chania with less crowds. 

    (4) Old Town of Chania:  Explore the waterfront and streets just behind. Walk along the harbour wall to the Venetian Lighthouse.

    (5) Chania Market:  An indoor market in a cross-shaped building and a great place to purchase some local foods.  In addition, there are also multiple stalls selling cheap souvenirs.  

    (6) Viewpoint of Old Town (Schiavo):  If you’re looking for a nice viewpoint of the old city, visit Schiavo.  I’ve pinned it in my Google Maps. 

    (7) Al Hammam Traditional Baths:  I’m impartial about this review.  I’ve been to a traditional hammam in Turkey and this place is far from traditional.  It is also on the pricier side for a “scrub” and the bath was not as authentic as I would have hoped.  Nonetheless, it was still a relaxing experience after a grueling day hike through Samaria Gorge.  Would I do it again?  Probably not, but I enjoyed my experience. 

    Places to Eat 

    As you visit the island of Crete, it is customary to have Cretan Raki at the end of the meal.  Throughout the island you will find multiple brands of Cretan homemade Raki.  

    (1) Bougatsa Jordan (Iordanis) (Apokoronou 2, Chania):  Bougatsa is a Greek breakfast pastry made of crispy, flaky phyllo dough wrapped around either a cheese or sweet custard filling.  The bougatsa at Iordanis is prepared with Chaniot myzithra cheese and sprinkled with powdered sugar.  It is extremely popular amongst the locals!  I shared one portion with my friend and paired it with a cup of Greek coffee! 

    (2) Tamam Restaurant (Zampeliou 49, Chania): “Traditional Greek food with some Eastern oriented influences by the Ottoman cuisine and the broader Eastern Mediterranean region.” – Tamam Restaurant.  

    (3) To Maridaki (Daskalogianni 33, Chania):  Delicious seafood with a fresh and changing daily menu.  Reasonable prices for seafood.  Make reservations if possible! 

    (4) Kousina LTD (Daskalogianni 25, Chania):  Another seafood place next door.  We tried to eat here, but the line was out the door.  Make reservations if possible!  

    Places to Shop

    (1) To Meli (Kondilaki 45, Chania):  A wide variety of Cretan products.  They were one of the few shops in Chania that sold Fisika olive oil soaps!  They are made via all organic materials.  A little more on the expensive side, but great souvenirs.  

    (2) Elephant Store (Kondilaki 30, Chania):  Lots of great gifts, accessories, and apparel.  I bought some Helleo bar soaps here (also organic) in addition to some other knick knacks. 

    (3) Ambrosia Plus (Mpetolo (Betolo) 47-49, Chania):  We purchased some really nice and cheap turkish towels here (17 Euro each).  They are really soft and can be used as a scarf, blanket, or towel.  I’ve used it many times on planes, roadtrips, and even walking around town.  No complaints so far and great gifts if you have some luggage space. 

    (4) Casa Di Pietra Hotel and Gift Shop (Theotokopoulou 37, Chania):  Lots of cute souvenirs. 

    (5) Chania Market

    (6) Other things to buy:  We went to a beauty store on the corner of Isodion and Karaoli ke Dimitriou.  I bought some face masks (that were on sale) by Apivita.  We also went to the Abea store and bought some olive oil soap.  Here was my final stash (includes some freebies): 

    I’ve mapped all of my favorite restaurants, places to stay, and places to shop on Google Maps!  See Greece 2018 Google Map pins!  Happy travels.  🙂 

  • Athens

    Athens is the capital and largest city of Greece.  We spent two full days (three nights) exploring Athens and getting acclimated to the time zone.  Following Athens, we took the 8:20am train from Athens Central Station to visit Meteora near Kalambaka.  

    Getting Around Athens

    Within Athens, you can travel via city buses, electric trolley-buses, metro, tram, and the suburban railway.  If you need directions to and from the Airport, Piraeus (Port), and/or Downtown Athens, review travel information on the Athens Transport website!  This site provides a lot of useful information regarding transportation in and around Athens. 

    Where to Stay? 

    We stayed approximately 15 min walking distance to the Syntagma station.  It was a good location, though we walked approximately 8 miles each day.  If you would prefer to do a little less walking, I would recommend staying in a hotel/AirBnB/hostel closer (but might be slightly more expensive). 

    We stayed in Athens for three nights before we headed to Meteora and one night after Meteora (before we went to catch the ferry to Santorini).  Our AirBnB was near the Akropoli Metro Station.  Since our ferry was departing at 7:20am from Piraeus, we decided to take a taxi to the port instead of the metro because the metro would require two transfers before getting onto the green line to Piraeus.  We didn’t want to risk missing the ferry so we opted for the taxi.  If you are planning to depart on an early ferry to the islands, I would recommend having your stay in Athens (the night before the ferry) somewhere on the green line or closer to the port.  NOTE: The taxi cost us 10 Euro.  For tips on using the ferry and Santorini, visit my Santorini post!  

    Things to See

    (1) Acropolis of Athens:  Also known as “The Acropolis” is from the Greek words ἄκρον (akron, “highest point, extremity”) and πόλις (polis, “city”).  It was an ancient citadel located in Athens and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historic significance, the most famous being the Parthenon.  Go early or prior to closing as this site is extremely busy with tourists and school groups.  

    (2) Monastiraki Flea Market:  If you want to look for some cheap souvenirs: postcards, olive wood objects, soaps, olive oil, Greek sandals, miscellaneous items this would be the place for you. 

    (3) Lycabettus Hill:  A very popular place to watch the sunset!  You will not be watching it alone.  It requires a “slight” hike to get to the top, but well worth it.  Bring a bottle of wine and snacks with you and enjoy the sunset. 

    Places to Eat 

    (1) To Maupo Provato Press Cafe (Arrianou 31):  This place was recommended by our AirBnB host.  It was so good we decided to return for a second time!  It is recommended to make a reservation, however if you come at irregular European eating hours you might be able to get a table without a reservation.  Bread, tomato spread, and a shot of ouzo are served as complimentary apéritifs.  We ordered the seafood pasta and it was delicious! 

    (2) Mani Mani (Falirou 10): If you’re looking for a fancy dinner, I’d recommend this place. 

    (3) Avocado (Nikis 30): If you are in need of vegan and/or vegetarian options, Avocado is the place for you.  They use all organic and locally produced products. 

    (4) Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (Mitropoleos 12): Classic mezze and Mediterranean cuisine. 

    (5) Diporto (Sokratous 9): Greek Restaurant with only a daily menu that changes frequently. 

    Places to Shop

    (1) Forget Me Not (Adrianou 100):  Local artists selling handmade goods. 

    (2) The Apivita Experience Store (Solonos 6):  All natural made-in-Greece cosmetics store.  I love their face masks and they serve as great “made-in-Greece” souvenirs!  You can purchase their products at multiple locations but if you want to visit their flagship store I would go here. 

    (3) Korres Natural Products (Ermou 4):  All natural “made-in-Greece” cosmetics store.  

    (4) Monastiraki Flea Market

    I’ve mapped all of my favorite restaurants, places to stay, and places to shop on Google Maps!  See Greece 2018 Google Map pins!  Happy travels.  🙂 

  • Santorini

    Santorini is probably the most famous of all of the Greek islands most known for their beautiful sunsets and blue roof cave houses.  Santorini, also known as “Thira”, is the southernmost island of the Cyclades.  The island is what remains after a massive volcanic eruption, which then created the current geological caldera you see today.  The last volcanic eruption was in 1950.  The island’s main port is “Athinios”.  The capital is “Fira”.  

    Getting to Santorini from Athens

    (1) Ferry (Piraeus to Thira): There are many different types of ferries you can take from Athens (Piraeus) to Santorini (Thira).  We used Blue Star Ferries to ferry from Piraeus to Santorini (with stops in Paros and Naxos).  

    • Departed Piraeus at 0725.  Arrived Santorini at 1530.  Scheduled arrival was 1450.  
    • Cost in April 2018 for Special Economy (25 Euro/pp): USD $39.54/pp – 34 Euro/pp after taxes/fees.  
    • Duration: 8 hours.  If you are limited with time, a high speed ferry or flying might be a more viable option. 
    • Tickets purchased online will have to be picked up at the Company’s Central Agencies or from the Port Agencies at the port of departure.  

    (2) Air:  You can fly to Santorini from Athens.  However, it was more cost effective to take the ferry.  

    Blue Star Ferry Tips

    • Super Economy” tickets (cheapest) cannot be reserved online.  However, they can be reserved via phone (+0030 210 8919800) with a credit/debit card.  I ended up purchasing “Special Economy” tickets online.  
    • Be aware of potential delay.  The ferries can arrive at the final destination point at a later time than scheduled.  Plan your itineraries accordingly.  
    • Purchase tickets early if you are traveling during high season (especially on weekends and/or holidays) and for cheaper fares.  
    • The timetables changes all of the time depending on what time of year you are traveling so always check their website for the most updated timestables
    • Arrive early to the ferry to get good seat if you are in Economy.  The Blue Star Ferries can accommodate thousands of passengers (most of which are in the economy areas).  We went early and were able to score a booth in the corner next to a window.  
    • Bring a portable battery charger.  There are limited outlets on the ferry.  You will be lucky if you find an available open one. 
    • WIFI is available for purchase at the reception desk. 
    • Bring snacks.  Water, coffee, and food are available on the ferry for purchase. 
    • There are lockers for rent (1 Euro each) on the main deck.  The larger lockers fit my backpacking bag so I did not need to worry about it or lug it around the ferry.  NOTE:  They are kind of a pain to use and lock.  I asked for assistance with a ferry employee.   
    • Book your transportation in advance from the ferry port to your hotel/hostel stay.  There are thousands of passengers getting off the ferry, which makes the lines for the public bus very long.  Most hostels/hotels may offer a transportation service from the port.  There are also transportation services at the port, but they will charge much higher fees.  Be prepared to do some negotiating.  
    • For transportation back to Athinios Port from Fira, the timestable changes daily depending on the ferry schedule.  Go to the Fira Central Bus Station for the schedule.  Typically the bus will depart for Athinios Port approximately 1.5 hrs prior to the ferry departure.  

    Getting Around Santorini

    (1) Bus: The “KTEL Santorini Public Bus System” is very cost effective and efficient for getting around the island.  The timestables change depending on the season.  The final destination of the bus will be displayed on the front.  For those departing from the Fira Central Bus Station, you will pay for your ticket on the bus.  Ensure you have the appropriate cash.  

    (2) Rent a Car/Scooter/ATV:  There are plenty of places to rent a car, scooter, and/or ATV.  Rentals from various companies may require an International Drivers License.  The roads in Santorini seemed kind of hectic to me, so I would not recommend driving unless you are comfortable driving around places like this.  In addition, the bus system was very easy to use so we had no trouble. 

    (3) Taxi:  There are taxis available on the island.  

    Where to Stay? 

    Fira / Karterádos:  I would recommend staying at Pension Stella in Karterádos.  It is a 15min walk to Fira.  From Fira you can use the public bus system to go anywhere on the island.  If you do not want to do the 15min walk, there are plenty of options (hostels and hotels) in Fira.  

    Oia:  If you are interesting in staying in a “cave house” and would like to spend a little more on accommodations, then you might be interested in staying in Oia.  For our trip, we ended up spending two nights in Fira and two nights in Oia.  In Oia, we spent one night with a bottle of wine and a homecooked meal and just enjoyed the view. 

     

    There are other places to stay on the island that are much quieter such as Perissa or Imerovigli.  

    Things to See

    (1) Volcano and Caldera Excursion:  There are quite a few tour groups that have the same excursion and cost about 22-26 Euro/pp depending on whom you purchase it from.  The tour departs daily from the old port of Fira in the morning. 

    The tours stop at the volcano bay where groups can hike to the top of the volcano and active craters.  Next, the tour heads to the hot springs.  For lunch, the tour stops at Thirassia island where passengers can sunbathe, swim, and eat.  Finally, the boat stop at Oia to drop off passengers who wish to watch the sunset before heading back to old port Fira. 

    TIPS for the Excursion

    • The tours depart from the old port of Fira.  You can either walk or take the funicular down to the old port.  If you decide to walk, it is approximately ~588 steps down.  In addition, these same steps are used for those who would prefer transportation by donkey.  We walked down and it wasn’t too bad, but for those that are scared of animals or worried about stepping on donkey poop I would advise them to pay to take the funicular (6 Euro/pp). 
    • Wear hiking/walking shoes for the hike to the top of the volcano.  The terrain is rocky and better suited for those with appropriate shoes.  We wore sandals and were still able to make it to the top.  But it would have been much easier with walking shoes. 

    • Bring water.  There is water for purchase on the boat for a higher fee. 
    • If you plan to swim, bring a swimsuit, towel, sandals, and extra change of clothes. 
    • The swim to the hot springs is not difficult, however it is not recommended for children or unexperienced swimmers.  I do not swim very often and getting from the boat with the current was a bit tiring.  The water is cold.  As you swim towards the hot spring the water mixes with the current and get warmer as you swim towards the bay. 

    • Bring cash for eating on Thirassia Island. 

    (2) Perissa Beach:  Also known as the “Black Sand Beach” and one of the more popular beach towns on the island.  The beach was clean.  On the sand there are umbrellas you can rent on the high season (free with a drink purchase during the low season).  There are some eateries in the area or you can bring your own food for a picnic lunch. 

    (3) Visit a winery:  There is a small wine industry on Santorini.  The grapes are grown using a unique bush-training.  As the vines grow, they are woven into baskets with the grapes facing toward the inside of the ring to protect themselves from the wind and the sunlight.  In addition, these plants require less water and retrieve most of their moisture from dew.  You’ll probably see a lot of these “bushes” around Santorini and would probably not even realize they are grape vines!  A great winery to visit is “Santo Wines”, located near Athinios Port.  This is a great place to watch the sunset if you’re here during the April/May months!  I believe the buses to Perissa and Akrotiri stop here! 

    (4) Santorini Sunsets: Depending on what time of year you are going to Santorini can change the viewpoint on where to watch the sunset.  The most popular places to watch the sunset is in Oia.  We watched it from the westernmost point “Santorini Sunset Views” (on Google Maps).  The Byzantine castle ruins is a very popular location to watch the sunset as well. 

    Places to Eat 

    (1) Lucky’s Souvlakis (Δεκιγαλά, Fira):  If you are looking for a quick and delicious place for gyros or souvlakis, this is your place!  It is near central square near a lot of other eateries.  We went back here to get some gyros before our ferry to Crete.  Well worth it. 

    (2) Pelican Kipos (Fira): A little more pricier for some of the food in the area.  Nice garden eating area.  Food was not bad.  The waiter brought us some complimentary glasses of wine and dessert, which was a plus! 

    (3) Roka (m.Mpotsari 6, Οία):  Highly recommend.  This was one of our favorite fancy meals on our trip.  Prices were reasonable.  Make a reservation if possible.  We didn’t since we were eating on a weekday and much earlier than typical European dinner hours.  We had octopus with caramelized onions, the lamb shank, and shrimp with orzo.  All were excellent dishes! 

    (4) Lotza (Οία): We didn’t go here, but the place smelled delicious and looked great! 

    Places to Shop

    (1) Atlantis Books E.E. (Nomikos Street, Oía 847 02, Greece):  Beautiful small bookstore. 

    (2) Lots of small shops around Fira and Oía. 

    I’ve mapped all of my favorite restaurants, places to stay, and places to shop on Google Maps!  See Greece 2018 Google Map pins!  Happy travels.  🙂